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I learned that the south Indian blend podi – a rubble of fiery, crudely milled spices, which you mix with a little oil and use as a accompaniment for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” spice mix. It's aptly named if you were using my grandmother’s homemade dried chilies, but it would be kind to say that I’m far less adventurous with chilli, so here I suggest crushed chilies instead. It’s an exceptionally great marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Gunpowder Paneer and Potato Skewers with Lime-Mint Dressing

Gather six to eight metal or wooden skewers (if bamboo, immerse them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 minutes
Cook 30 min
Serves a couple

Four hundred grams waxy potatoes, chopped into four-centimeter chunks
8 ounces paneer, cubed into 0.8-inch cubes
1 tsp coriander seeds
Half a tsp fennel seeds
One teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 tsp chilli flakes
One and a half tsp flaky sea salt, plus extra to serve
Two cloves of garlic, peeled and grated
Two and a half centimeters piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated
40ml flavorless oil
One red onion, prepared and divided into eight wedges, then sliced across

For the dressing
Zest and juice from one lime, finely grated
0.35 ounces fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
½ teaspoon flaky sea salt
100g natural yoghurt

Simmer the potatoes for about 10 minutes, then drain them and allow to air dry for a minute. Meanwhile, put the paneer cubes in a bowl of boiling water for 5 minutes, then strain and blot dry.

Add the spice seeds into a pestle and mortar or blender, add the seasonings, then pound or blitz to a chunky blend.

Place in a medium-large bowl with the minced ginger and garlic, add the oil, then gently stir in the cubed paneer, cooked potatoes and red onions to coat. Skewer the vegetables and cheese on to six to eight metal or soaked wooden skewers, then transfer to a baking sheet and keep ready – if desired, you can at this stage wrap and chill the skewers.

Stir all the ingredients for the dressing in a container. Turn on the grill to its maximum heat, then cook the skewers for five to seven minutes on each side, until the paneer is browned and the potatoes are beginning to blacken. (This may take a variable duration depending on the heat of your broiler, so keep an eye on them, especially when cooking the first side.)

Serve the skewers hot, topped with a little more salt and the sauce on the side for serving.